Oxford shoes have been around since the 1800s, starting off as practical men's shoes and eventually becoming a must-have for women too. From classic styles like the Oxford and Derby to more unique looks like spectator shoes, their mix of history, function, and style keeps them popular year after year.
Oxford Shoes for Men
The origin of Oxford shoes
Oxford shoes, also called Balmorals, first appeared in the early 1800s as everyday shoes for men. They became especially popular among students at Oxford University—hence the name. Even though we don’t know the exact year they were made, they’ve been worn for more than 200 years.
Going Mainstream
In the 19th century, Oxfords started gaining attention outside of Oxford. Their clean, refined design made them perfect for dressier events, which fit the formal fashion trends of the time. With the Industrial Revolution, better manufacturing meant more people could afford quality shoes. Oxfords quickly became a staple in men’s wardrobes across social classes.
Our William Oxford boot is based on a classic 1910s men’s style, featuring a traditional closed-lacing system.
Oxfords Hit Hollywood
By the 1930s and 1940s, Oxford shoes were all over the big screen. Leading men in Hollywood wore them regularly, which helped make the shoes popular beyond formal wear and into everyday style.
Oxford Shoes for Women
By the late 1800s, women started borrowing from men’s fashion—think shirts, ties, and vests—thanks to how practical it was. This shift picked up even more during World War I, when women started working in roles traditionally held by men. With comfort and function becoming more important in women’s fashion, Oxford shoes naturally found their place.
Our Florence Oxford is based on early 1910s women’s styles, complete with a low, easy-to-wear heel.
Heeled Oxfords
In the 1920s, Oxford shoes evolved again—this time with higher heels, like the popular curved French heel. This change made the Oxford both practical and stylish, appealing to working women and the fashion-forward alike. By the end of the decade, they were a women’s wardrobe essential.
Oxfords During WWII
Through the 1930s and ’40s, Oxfords stayed popular. Women often wore versions with low block heels made from brown or black leather. These shoes were great for mixing and matching—especially during wartime, when materials were limited. Over time, stylish details like cut-outs, fancy stitching, and decorative leather helped keep things fresh without wasting resources.
Our Juliette shoe channels a classic 1930s look, featuring vintage-style detailing true to the era.
What's the difference between Oxford and derby shoes?
The Derby shoe is similar to the Oxford, but there’s one main difference: the lacing system.
Oxford Shoes
Oxfords have what's called a closed lacing system—the parts with the eyelets are stitched under the front part of the shoe. This gives them a tighter, sleeker look, which makes them more formal.
Our Mildred Oxford, a 1930s-inspired design, shows off this style with refined cut-outs and a graceful heel.
Derby Shoes
Derbys, on the other hand, have an open lacing system, meaning the sides of the shoe flap over the middle and lace up from there. This makes them easier to adjust and a little more casual.
Our Eleanor Derby is a great 1940s-inspired style with a flat heel and the signature open laces.
Spectator Shoes: A Sporty Twist
Spectator shoes are a fun, sporty version of Oxfords and Derby shoes. They usually come in two colors—like black and white or brown and white—but you’ll also find styles in navy, burgundy, and more.
These shoes first showed up in the late 1800s as athletic shoes. People started wearing them to sporting events, which is where the name "spectator" comes from. They started as men’s shoes but became popular with women in the 1920s and ’30s.
Our Grace spectator shoe is a classic 1940s two-tone style in brown and white.
Want to Know More?
If you’re into shoe history, check out our deep dive in the history of the spectator shoe in The History of Two-Tone Spectators: A Vintage Icon
Need tips for keeping your shoes in top shape? Head over to our guide on leather shoe care in our article How to clean leather shoes and boots.
Sources:
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Vintage Shoes by Caroline Cox
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Shoes: An Illustrated Story by Rebecca Shawcross